Category: TVAN

Mitchell Falls drained us, after the 2 hour hike out I think we were all exhausted, was very hot and the walk was quite difficult….we left Drysdale Station after refuelling, we now had a few extra days up our sleeves as we couldn’t get to Honeymoon Beach or Kulumabaru, road closed for at least 3 more weeks…..we backtracked along the Kulumabaru Road towards the Gibb, with the hope of finding a free camp for a night or two…we passed Gibb River Camp, a beautiful spot but full…no room for us so we rejoined the Gibb River Road and headed east, meandering along the dusty corregations we failed to find any suitable camps, so decided to make our way to Ellenbrae Station for a lunch break and some of their famous scones…we stayed 2 nights… the scones were next level and the camp area was clean, great toilets and showers and not too busy….we visited Sandy Gorge and saw 2 fresh water crocodiles on the other side…no swimming for us…a relatively relaxed few days, trying to recover from Mitchell Falls,we all seem to have lost our “vim” or vigour…. probably dehydration.. numerous hydration tabs were being ingested to help…..

Departed Hann River for King Edward River Camp, but on the way we fuelled up At Drysdale River Station, and set off again Ling the Kulumabaru Road….freshly graded in places so we had good momentum and speed along the dusty road….150 km later we turned left toward Mitchell Falls National Park, the road dead ahead is still closed, so we can’t make it to Honeymoon Beach, sad but a reality in these parts, the road isnt expected to be opened for another month….6km later we arrived at the king Edward River crossing, about 600 mm deep, and flowing quite fast, easily negotiated Nd found our way to camp….setup and prepared for tomorrow’s full day at Mitchell Falls.

Day 26, 5.30 am start for the 2.5 hour bine shaking road into the national Park..arriving about 8.30 am….checked into the Helicopter booking office to see what we could get and they offered us  a 6 minute flight into the falls, a bit of looping around and then land at the falls top pool and walk back the 2.5 hour hike…we took the helicopter and it was great, fantastic views from the doorless craft.. landing at the top shortly after we alighted and walked around to the viewing area, took some photos and then made our way towards the top pool for a swim before making the hike back….the water was pretty warm, refreshed we started our hike back….at times we had wished we got the helicopter back not what we did, it was hot in the sun and the hike was challenging, rated a cat5, the hardest of hikes in Western Aus.

It wasn’t too long before we got back, we had pretty much run out of water, so just as well….

Back in the cars for more bone shaking to get back to camp….. exhausted, the post dinner banta, succumbed to tiredness and we retreated to bed…to rest our weary old bones..

Left Mt Elizabeth Station headed for Hann River Camp on the banks of the river…arrived around 11am and set up camp next to the river. Lovely spot, some shade from the heat…relaxed all day, didn’t do too much.

Today we learnt the road to Kulumabaru will probably not open until July 5, a day after we get home, so we need to revise the next few days before our next booking at El Questro.

Left Manning and arrived about 2.30pm, beautiful green oasis at the homestead..found a campsite and settled in…quite a few other campers here, but the facilities are great and plentiful…. decided to stay 2 nights and do the gorge tour tomorrow and also book in for the Station Dinner, hosted by the station owners.

Started early to beat the heat… unique start to our walk this morning in that we have to traverse a river before we pick up the trail to upper Manning Gorge…..water temp was about 24c, ambient was about 14c, so a very refreshing dip to start the walk…all our dry gear is placed in a cut down 200 litre drum and floated across…once reaching the other side, we put our dry clothes back on and started the 3km hike into the Upper gorge…..walking over rocky ground , scattered Spinifex and few trees, up and down small valleys until we found ourselves climbing down a steep rock face to get to the final gorge and swimming hole…. absolutely stunning once we arrived…..took us just over an hour for the home,but worth every minute….had our swim and just paddled around in the luxurious sandy beach shallow, after an hour we  then decided to head back… backtracking along back to the river crossing and another swim to get our dry stuff across….back to camp, lunch and packup aiming for Mt Elizabeth Station.

Peaceful night apart from the resident camp Mr Oinkers, a tame pig, fully grown and curly tail….snorting and snuffling around our camp after we hit the bed…..creepy if you didnt know about him….off to Mt Barnet and Manning Gorge, but a few stops along the way to see some more..first up was Adcock Gorge, about a 7km excursion off the Gibb Road, rough 4wd track but rewarding to see the Gorge. Trekked on foot about 500m to the gorge, wading through the creek and climbing over rocks. Fantastic spot and lovely waterfall about 3o meters high,  a few punters were having a swim but we decided to push on to the next stop…Galvins Gorge….this one is much closer to the Gibb, and an easier stroll, these gorges just get better and better, the swimming pool below, filled from a towering waterfall, 30-40 meters high, crystal clear waters…stunning..

Back in the car and onward toward Mt Barnet, fuelled up at $3.30 per litre, ouch and paid for entry to Manning Gorge and a night camp…..again traversing a track toward the Gorge…we were advised not to go to the gorge after 12 as it gets to hot, so we decided to go to the beach and swim in lower Manning Gorge, beautiful stunning pool, beach and surrounded by palms and rocks…… tomorrow we tackle the track to upper Manning, which requires you to paddle across the stream and start the walk from the other side….we aim to start early before the heat…

Early start to get to Silent Grove campsite and get a good spot, the WA government website is attrocios and advises is fully booked…..pftttt.. decided to take a gamble and go straight there, about 2.5 hours in the saddle today, dusty corregations all the way…but that’s what we like..the remoteness and difficult terrain, passed a few camps along the road but settle for Silent Grove, nice shady spots…set up camp and had a quick bite then back in the car to Bell Gorge.

Quite a difficult walk, down a river bed with loose rocks and not a lot of traction….about 1 km later we were rewarded with a spectacular water fall and swimming pools…scrambled over rocks like we were 8 year Olds and got to lower pool for a refreshing swim….water temp was 23….cold at first but very nice after a moment…spent a few hours there and then back to camp for dinner….what a day.

Our first full day on the Gibb, and it didn’t disappoint…first up was a walk into Windjana Gorge, fresh water crocodiles on the opposite river bank, sunning themselves. Saw a warning sign stating sighting of a Salty, the more aggressive croc.. Continued our walk and after about 2km, decided to walk back, then we sighted the Salty, just very slowly swimming down the river, then beaching himself and pulling up onto a log…sunning himself…approx 2-3 meters long a d pretty scary….back to camp, early lunch then off to Tunnel Creek. 

This is a natural tunnel cave system that passes under the rock ridge from one side to the other, about 700 meters in length….but no lights under there and it involved water wading to knee high where fresh air water crocodiles are known to live, we needed headlamps and you could see beady eyes just at the water line…we suspected crocs…but didn’t really want to investigate..

Fantastic cave and stalactites, bats and frogs…there were lots of people doing the same so we felt we weren’t the only food source for the hungry inhabitants…..back to camp and tomorrow we are off for our first waterfall gorge combo.

Early start after a great night, off to see the Falls again, this time at the lowest tide, wildlife spotting on the way, then into the falls for one last time, this time was far more tidal movement and the ride and view just stunning.

The air was unfortunately thick with smoke for a nearby controlled burn off, but that didn’t stop our experience…. back to the pontoon for a cooked gourmet breakfast, again Chef Salavador prepared a winning meal….sadly we had to leave soon, so back to the main pontoon for the sea plane ride home, except this time I got so sit in the copilots seat….split pumpkin, enjoyed every minute of the 37m flight time….the pilot said I did well…….I just sat there…amazed at the view and controls at my fingertips……landed back at Derby, the dream side trip had finished….but the Gibb River Road GRR,  lied ahead, our next adventure for the next 20.days.
Stocked up one final time and started heading East along the GRR..

The next chapter is just beginning

9.15 am bus ride to the Derby airport, where we boarded a Cessna Caravan Amphibious plane, for the 30 minute ride to Horizontal Falls. This is a natural phenomena where bays of water have only 1 outlet to the sea, and given the 11m tidal rise/fall it makes for a interesting recipe of millions of litres of water is trying to escape a 20m wide rock crevice, high-powered specliazed boats take you through the raging white water, you can literally see a 2 m high wall of water falling into the gap and causing massive eddy current and white water…a bumpy ride through but exhilarating….
One we arrived the the main pontoon, we boarded one of the high speed, high powered boat to our nightly accommodation, another pontoon, but this was the luxury stay, double rooms with ensuite bathroom/toilet and gourmet nibbles, lunch, dinner and breakfast the next day….the staff and water team worked extremely hard and efficiently and everything was planned but not rushed to the minute……fishing tour where Tom caught the only notable fish , 2 kg Queen fish, back into another boat for another exhilarating ride through the falls, each time we went through the falls at a different time, the experience was different due to rising or falling tides…simply WOW…..
Back for pre.dinner drinks and the best steak dinner I have ever had, accompanied with wines and drinks.

The staff and team were fantastic, quality staff…

After dinner the bar was open and all 16 guests mingledand shared life stories….but we all agree this experience was well worth it.

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